Plants & Trees
Our new and enhanced outdoor plant area carries a comprehensive range of trees, conifers, shrubs, roses, perennials, climbers, alpines, heathers, bedding plants, grasses, fruit trees and statement plants for that instant impact in your garden.
Our plant area is set out in alphabetical order for easy garden planning. We have published our own plant guide leaflets to show you what we have available on offer. They are designed to assist you in achieving all year round colour.
Please find in store 28 leaflets for you to pick up free of charge.
We are proud to supply top quality plants at very reasonable prices and a one year guarantee with proof of purchase*.
We offer a wide range of summer and winter hanging baskets to enhance your garden.
Please visit our friendly plant area team for all your garden questions and if you are not able to find the plant you are looking for, then we will do our up most to source our suppliers, to provide you with the plant you're after.
Plants & Trees Manager
Hardy Plant Guarantee - Our hardy outdoor plants are covered by a 12 month guarantee, which begins from the day of purchase. Proof of purchase in the form of our till receipt must be produced. A plant label alone does not qualify. We will replace the plant or provide a full refund. The guarantee does not cover sale or discounted items. The guarantee does not cover plants that have not been properly cared for. The plant must finally be returned to the garden centre for inspection.
Plant of The Month For June - Roses
Roses are one of the most popular garden plants. These beauties come in a range of colours, many with scented blooms, and they can be grown in borders, containers, over arches, pergolas and as groundcover. They are easy to grow and live for a long time, if looked after.
Group Shrubs, climbers, ramblers and groundcover plants
Flowering time Summer and autumn
Planting time Late autumn to early spring
Height and spread 30cm-9m (1ft-30ft) height and spread
Aspect There are roses for sun and shade
Hardiness Mostly fully hardy, but some are only frost hardy
Roses will grow in almost any soil, as long as it is well-drained. Incorporating some well-rotted garden compost or manure into the planting area will get your roses off to a flying start.
There are so many different roses, there is possibly one for any spot in the garden, from a container on a sunny patio, to a climber for a north-facing wall.
Roses are deep rooted plants that, once established, can survive on the moisture present naturally in the soil. But, in the first few years after planting, and where the soil is especially dry, thorough watering is recommended. Wet the top 25cm (10in) of the soil every 10 days in prolonged dry spells to give the best results.
Roses in containers need to be watered so that the compost never dries out, but is never soggy; this could be every day in hot weather. For more on selecting suitable roses for container growing, see the links below.
Roses are hungry plants that respond well to generous feeding:
Sprinkle general-purpose or rose fertiliser around roses in spring at 70g per sq m (2oz per sq yd)
Mulch with rotted organic matter, ideally rotted manure, immediately after adding fertiliser. Keep the mulch clear of the rose stems, leaving a 10cm (4in) gap between the mulch and stems.
Feed roses in containers every fortnight from mid-spring until late summer with general-purpose liquid fertiliser until flower buds form and then with high-potassium liquid fertiliser, such as tomato feed
Weeding around roses
Roses have roots that come up near the soil surface, so hoeing is best avoided or at least kept very shallow.
Hand weeding and mulching will control annual weeds, but perennial ones may need to be removed individually with a fork. Mulching and planting groundcover plants will help to keep roses weed-free.
Pruning and training
Roses should be deadheaded after flowering where this is practical, but only on plants that don’t produce attractive hips (seed-pods) after flowering.
With standard roses (which are grafted onto a tall trunk), prune the crown according to the cultivar used; floribunda, hybrid tea and shrub cultivars are most commonly used.
Roses are usually budded in summer, but rootstocks are seldom available to gardeners and budding requires skill and practice for good results.
Home gardeners who want to try propagating a favourite rose should try taking hardwood cuttings in autumn or semi-ripe cuttings in late summer.
Roses that are grown on their own roots (species roses) can be propagated by cutting off a sucker from the main plant and replanting it separately.
Layering is sometimes used, especially for shrub, climber and rambler roses.
Roses can be raised from seed, and if they are species roses will come true to type, but cultivars will not come true to type.
Roses can suffer from numerous pests including; brown scale, rose aphids, rose leafhopper, rose leaf-rolling sawfly, large rose sawfly, rose slug sawfly or slugworm and scurfy rose scale.
Common diseases or disorders of rose include; replant disease (aka rose sickness), rose dieback, rose powdery mildew, rose blackspot and rose rust.
A lack of flowers or blindness in roses can be a problem. On heavily double flowered forms rose balling can ruin the flowers after wet weather.
Bob Flowerdew - Talk on 'Helping our garden ecology on ways to encourage wildlife big and small in our gardens'
Bawdeswell Garden centre was today delighted to welcome the amazing Bob Flowerdew : TV presenter and radio broadcaster-as regular panel member for Gardener’s Question Time- and successful author of many gardening books relating to organic gardening, plus the writing lots of gardening blogs.
With lots of anecdotal evidence and information derived from many years of personal experience combined with knowledge from many of his like-minded ecological colleagues, Bob gave us a comprehensive overview of lots of simple ideas to encourage a greater diversity of wildlife into our gardens and growing spaces. From making papier mache bird boxes that are both fun to make, yet perfectly contoured for maximum egg maturation; to using woody based plant cuttings sandwiched between two layers of netting to create effect barriers/screens for the garden use, but which also double as fantastic bug hotels for overwintering ‘ critters’, on a grand scale.
Bob encouraged us to create more diverse habitats within our gardens, to use native plants which will encourage native wildlife, and create more ‘Animal boxes’ for these creatures to live and breed. They in turn produce nutrient dense waste materials that will ultimately feed our plants. A healthy garden is a productive garden on many levels. We need Bees, Hoverflies, Ladybirds and Lacewings, Wasps, Beetles, Frogs, Toads and Newts...And yes even spiders to have a truly bio-diverse garden.
Many thanks to Bob today, for giving us renewed motivation and the desire to get out there and make those small changes-in all our garden-for the better.